Glenary’s Array of Gourmet Dishes
Glenary’s, Darjeeling, always evokes an old world charm with its iconic ambience and an unmatchable array of gourmet dishes; Prasanta Paul finds out during a recent trip there.
In Rome, do as the Romans do; so goes the proverb. In Darjeeling, if you yearn for gorgeous gourmet food nestled in the peace of a quiet nook, go to Glenary’s.
This iconic heritage restaurant flaunting a rich colonial past and offering a truly British hangover will floor any itinerant visitor to the Queen of Hills provided the traveller has a passion for premium ingredients, sophisticated dishes and creative presentation.
If you are dying to escape from the summer heat, the number of cool destinations likely to be thrown up during a casual search on the internet might as well be puzzling. Darjeeling might as well be on the top order.
A plethora of places are certain to entice you for quiet entertainment in the Queen of the Hills; it’s always there to flood you with its flavours and fashion, a vista of the majestic view of Kanchenjunga coupled with a joy ride aboard the world heritage – Toy Train.
Going further, if you’re looking to get cosy in some old-world charm and dying for a light sip of the original, aromatic Darjeeling tea, embrace ‘HOPE’ etched at the entrance of the Glenary’s and step into its austere ambience and vintage interior; that’s simply beckoning you in.
Barely a minute’s walk from the lap of the historic Mall, the eatery is home to a bakery-cum-confectionary, a coffee shop, restaurant and a unique resto-bar.
Legacy of Glenary’s
Glenary’s, the 115-year-old building, is an illustrious landmark in Darjeeling with a history dating back to the British Raj. Before the East India Company took over in 1835, Darjeeling was part of Sikkim.
When the then Governor General expressed interest in acquiring the Hills of Darjeeling for its potential as a sanatorium, thanks to its cool and pristine nature and climate, the royal king of Sikkim presented Darjeeling to the East India Company, as a gesture of friendship.
An Italian Family
Back then, Glenary’s wasn’t born; in fact, during its birth, it was christened as Vado, barely a confectionery around 1885. Vado owes its genesis to an Italian family that tied up with Adolph Pliva; a restaurant was added to the confectionery. Following Vado’s return to Italy, the ownership passed on to Plivas.
The Plivas took a flight to England in 1959, selling the property to AT Edwards who was then serving as the manager. Gradually, Edwards toiled a lot to upscale the restaurant and confectionery, reveals Avaya, the present manager, to this EIS correspondent quoting Edwards’ grandson Abel Edwards, the third generation proprietor.
Abel, currently abroad, has been engaged in the hospitality industry, but makes it a point to keep tabs on the goings-on on a regular basis. Possessed with a progressive thinking, both Abel and his dad John B Edwards have contributed to the making of what Glenary’s is today.
The restaurant currently employs a total of 150 permanent staff; however, some contract hiring does take place during peak season.
Glenary’s timings suit the hill tourists’ requirements; the bakery opens around 6 in the morning and closes at 9 pm. While the restaurant is open from 12: 30 to 10 pm, the coffee shop, a must for many tourists, ideally opens at 8 and downs its shutters by 9 pm.
“However, Glenary’s maintains one avowed tradition,” explains the handsome young manager in her late 20s, “We usually don’t ask the customers to leave after the regulation hour is over; they are allowed to stay as long as they want.”
A Classy Ambience at Glenary’s
The location may not be bucolic per say, but it belies the apprehension because of the comforts this place offers.
In fact, the façade of the property has become such a happening place that the entrance sporting “HOPE: Glenary’s” has turned out to be a popular selfie zone. There’s always a crowd jostling with one another for a selfie; the writer himself is no exception either!
Apart from the unmistakable façade, the chairs and tables are tastefully furnished in a vintage mode with furniture from Damme’s collection and wooden floors, made from timber from a nearby plantation.
The property’s unique atmosphere reaches its crescendo in the large dining-room, rich in prints, statues and masks sourced from all around the hills; it gives a panoramic view of the valley once you step onto the extended balcony.
The architecture is split between two distinct styles: one half ‘Woodside’ which preserves the original bones of the house, down to the lovely fireplace.
And the other ‘Sunnyside’; a newer build with large windows, a Scandinavian sauna, and the extension opening onto a large balcony that looks out toward the picturesque green valley and majestic Himalayan range, especially Kanchenjunga.
Food at Glenary’s
For food, there’s a rotating menu that switches between various Indian and international cuisines. The menu is kind of a lovely combination of local with European influences. The main chef and his staff whip up great repasts from a large open-plan kitchen.
Eggs to order, home-baked bread, and a range of chutneys and fruit salad for breakfast, followed by light lunches – crumby cutlets, steamed zucchini, mashed avocado, salads and more elaborate three-course dinners. (Menu card includes a lot more extravaganza!)
Besides the restaurant, there is that in-house bar below, serving international spirits blended with regional spices and ingredients.
And if you’re in the mood for a second trip to the hill station, you may head straight to this bar to shake off your ennui for a change.
Cafes & Competition
Darjeeling has witnessed a vivacious splurge in the number of eateries in the past one decade or so. Isn’t this causing a big chink in the customer traffic in this British raj restaurant?
“There is a handsome fusion of time, modernity and tradition that continues to make Glenary’s a class apart from the rest,” replies Avaya nonplussed, “the original taste and the variety, unique to Glenary’s, is simply unmatchable and that’s our USP.”
Besides Flurys, the latest entrant, to turn heat on such established joints as Keventer’s, Himalayan Coffee, Himalayan Java Coffee, Tom & Jerry’s Café and Frank Ross Café, the Glenary’s combo of café & bakery, restaurant & a bar is something that’s quite jaw-dropping.
In fact, the legendary breakfasts – from sandwiches to rolls, pizza and freshly baked cakes, coffee and then the original Darjeeling tea – have always been a big draw for the tourists.
To add to the spice, a live musical performance featuring every evening, especially during the onset of the tourist seasons, has proved to be a big draw, Avaya points out.
No wonder, after breakfasts, tourists inevitably queue up for a romantic alfresco dining experience.
So, plan and pack up your luggage for a sneak tour of Darjeeling and of course, a peek into Glenary’s. Who knows, you might just spot a fire breather turning tricks against the sparkling beauty of the hills.
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