Goodbye Padma Hilsa
West Bengal faces a hilsa shortage ahead of Durga Puja as Bangladesh reinforces its export ban. Discover how the beloved fish’s scarcity impacts the festival, and the diplomatic tension between the two nations.
This is an adoption from an article by Soutik Biswas published in BBC titled ‘Fish diplomacy’ setback for India and Bangladeshon export ban of Hilsa fish from Bangladesh.
As the festive season of Durga Puja looms large, the denizens of West Bengal are in for a bit of a fishy pickle. The reason? They might face a shortage of hilsa, the beloved fish that is as integral to Bengali celebrations as the pandals themselves.
This conundrum arises from our neighbour’s newfound resolve. Bangladesh, the world’s largest hilsa producer, has tightened its grip on the transportation of this coveted fish to India, reinstating a ban on exports. This move is part of a crackdown led by the new government in Dhaka, which took office a month ago. According to Farida Akhter, adviser to the Bangladesh Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, “A lot of fish is [still] going from Bangladesh to India [despite the ban]. This time we will not allow the hilsa to cross the border.” Quite the fish tale, isn’t it?
Hilsa, or ‘ilish’ as it is affectionately known, holds a near-sacred status in Bengali cuisine. This prized catch, often cooked with mustard seeds in a sumptuous curry, is a delicacy that not only tantalises the taste buds but also lights up the festival tables. Yet, despite its lofty reputation, hilsa remains a luxury for many in Bangladesh, affordable only to the rich and middle class. The poor, sadly, are left yearning for this aquatic treat.
In previous years, the former Bangladeshi Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina had charmed her way into the hearts of Bengalis in India by lifting the export ban during Durga Puja, effectively turning the hilsa into a festive gift. Her generosity knew no bounds, having even sent a consignment to West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee and gifted 30kg of hilsa to the then Indian President Pranab Mukherjee in 2017, all in the name of diplomacy. But now, with Hasina ousted amid a storm of student protests and a dramatic exit, the new interim government is keeping the fish firmly in its net.
The situation complicates India’s diplomatic dance with Bangladesh. While the interim government is keen on fostering good relations, Ms Akhter firmly states, “We will have goodwill gestures in all other ways. They are our friends. But we should not do anything by depriving our people. The question of goodwill is separate from this.” It seems goodwill might have to be served without the hilsa this year.
Bangladesh is not just any fish market. It’s the leading producer of hilsa, a species related to the herring, flourishing in the Bay of Bengal and its rivers. The fish makes up around 12% of the country’s total fish production and contributes about 1% to its GDP. Despite this, local prices for hilsa have surged, with a 1.5kg fish now fetching around 1,800 taka (£11.50). This is a far cry from last year’s prices, and fishermen attribute the spike to poor catches caused by unfavourable weather.
For Bengalis, whether in West Bengal or Bangladesh, hilsa is more than just a meal; it’s a culinary icon. As Bengali-American food historian Chitrita Banerji puts it, “Its tender flesh (bony though it may be), combined with an emollient texture and exquisite flavour, lends itself to an infinite variety of culinary preparations.” From being steamed with mustard paste to being fried with a light coating of spices, hilsa truly is the prince among fish.
So, as West Bengal gears up for Durga Puja, the absence of hilsa might put a dampener on the festivities. But fear not, the locals are known for their resilience and resourcefulness. They might just find a way to make their celebrations as grand as ever, even if it means swapping the hilsa for a hearty alternative. Let’s just hope the festive spirit is as abundant as ever, with or without the hilsa!
What's Your Reaction?
