The Gastronomic Ghugni

Sandeep Das was visiting the city of Calcutta where a simple yet tasty dish of Ghugni is an obsession. He shares his own recipe of the dish in this story.

I remember reading Kalyan Karmakar the food blogger who in his book ‘The Travelling Belly‘ describes a dish named Ghugni as “Beautiful, uncomplicated and pure flavors. Ghugni is a Bengali Brunch dish, which is often served with luchis as breakfast or with Kachoris in roadside tea stalls and humble sweetshops. It is curry made with Bengal gram, which are called ‘motor’ in Bengali. These are round and smaller than the chickpeas used in the Punjabi channa of Mediterranean Hummus… At times Mutton Keema or Mutton chunks is added in Ghugnis in Kolkata.”

I could relate to this during my recent visit to Calcutta. I must say I was rather surprised to see the obsession with the dish amongst the Bengalis. I mean go anywhere you will find a Roghuda or a Panuda selling Ghugni in his tea shop. I have seen this dish being served with so many different accompaniments. The innovative Bengalis love having it with Muri(Puffed Rice), Pauruti (Milk Bread), Petai Pororta to which I really cannot give a English name except a description. Well, it is a bread which is a feet and a half in diameter, it is fried and then beaten to small pieces which gives the name Petai (beating). Besides this the most famous is with Kochuri (fried bread) or even served with hard boiled eggs.

Besides Bengal the white peas can be found all across India. You’ll find this humble ingredients holding a special place in most of Indian regional cuisines. Be it the quintessential Matra-Kulcha of Amritsar or the famous Kadala Curry from Kerala, every part of the country surprises you with innovative and flavourful preparations made with chana.

Ghugni is usually cooked with dried white peas or Kabuli Matar. This mild spice based lentil soup is consumed perhaps all across East of India. White peas is a high energy food, hence many prefer the gravy as dry and thick. But for easy digestion, the gravy should be light by using chopped veggies, not in paste form. It keeps the soup lighter. Ghugni is a compulsive snack even in Bengal villages. Bengali cuisine can best be described as less is more. It’s simple and minimalistic just like French cuisine. Regarding Ghugni, peas originated from India and Afghanistan which was once a part of India was the birth place of white peas.

It is popular because it can be made easily and is absolutely delicious. The Bengal gram is soaked, boiled, and then cooked with tomatoes and a whole lot of spices like turmeric, garam masala and red chilly powder. The piping hot channa is then garnished with spoonful of hot green chutney, lime juice, chopped red onions and chaat masala. Smoky hot, spicy and tangy, the dish offers a burst of flavours. A similar dish is popular in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh known as Matar Chaat or Matra Chaat which is a bit dry and less spicy than the Ghugni.

Well let me share with you one of my own versions of this dish which you all can try.

Ingredients for Ghugni

Dried Yellow Peas soaked and drained and boiled2 cups

Oil 2 tablespoons

Onion 1 medium

Boiled potatoes 1medium

Cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon

Bay leaf 1

Ginger finely chopped1 teaspoon

Turmeric powder 1/4 teaspoon

Tomato chopped1 medium

Roasted cumin powder 2 teaspoons

Fresh coconut sliced1/4 cup

Salt to taste

Green chilies slit 2

Garam masala powder 1/2 teaspoon

Method

Step 1

Heat oil in a non stick pan. Chop onion. Add cumin seeds, bay leaf and onion to the pan and sauté till lightly browned.

Step 2

Add ginger, turmeric powder, tomato and a little water and mix. Sauté till tomato becomes pulpy.

See Also

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Step 3

Add peas and mix well. Add ¼ cup water and salt. Add boiled potatoes cumin powder and coconut slices and mix well.

Step 4

Add green chilies and garam masala

Bon Appetit