Calcutta Walks – Chandraketugarh

In this episode of Calcutta Walks we discuss Chandraketugarh. Once a bustling centre of trade with links to Europe, Chandraketugarh reveals glimpses of a time when Bengal was a significant power in the Gangetic delta. Discover the untold stories of its past, from the enigmatic ruler Chandraketu to the ancient artefacts that speak of a thriving

In this episode of Calcutta Walks, I’m taking a detour from my usual meanderings through the bylanes of Kolkata’s history, and we’re heading a bit further afield, to a place that’s brimming with tales of the past—Chandraketugarh. Nestled in North 24 Parganas, this ancient site sits quietly in the fertile delta where Bengal meets the Bay of Bengal. Here, history is as rich as the silt that shapes this ever-shifting landscape, where the land grows even as it teeters on the edge of rising sea levels—a classic case of nature giving with one hand and taking with the other.

A Stroll Down Memory Lane: The Historical Significance of Chandraketugarh

Now, Chandraketugarh wasn’t just some backwater; this place was tipped to be the capital of the Gangetic plains, a bustling hub of trade with connections that stretched all the way to Europe. The Greeks, with their flair for the dramatic, dubbed this region “Gangaridai,” and it crops up in several Graeco-Roman texts. Imagine the Bidyadhari River as more than the modest stream it is today—back then, it was a mighty artery of trade, welcoming ships from the Bay of Bengal, laden with exotic goods and curious cultures.

The tale of Chandraketugarh began to surface in the early 20th century when a local doctor, Taraknath Ghosh, stumbled upon the ancient mounds around 1905-1906. He tipped off the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and before you could say “artifact,” A.H. Longhurst from the ASI’s Eastern Circle was poking around, unearthing ancient pottery and bricks. The renowned archaeologist Rakhaldas Bandyopadhyay also paid a visit in 1909, but it wasn’t until 1955 that the Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art rolled up its sleeves for some proper digging.

These digs brought to light a treasure trove of artifacts spanning several historical periods, including:

1. Period I – Pre-Mauryan, characterised by Red Ware.
2. Period II – Maurya-Sunga era, marked by Northern Black Polished Ware.
3. Period III – Post-Sunga, featuring redware, stone beads, and cast copper coins.
4. Period IV – Kushan era, distinguished by terracotta figurines.
5. Period V – Gupta era, with remnants like burnt bricks.

Despite the promise of these discoveries, plans for further excavations were put on the back burner, and the mounds were covered, leaving these ancient secrets waiting to be unearthed once more.

The Enigma of Chandraketu and the Sandrocottus Debate

The very name “Chandraketugarh” suggests regal roots, roughly translating to “the region ruled by Chandraketu.” Details about this ruler are as scarce as hen’s teeth, but he’s thought to have been one of the greatest kings of the Gangetic delta. There’s even a bit of a scholarly tussle over the identity of Sandrocottus, a figure mentioned by the Greek explorer Megasthenes. Traditionally, Sandrocottus is equated with Chandragupta Maurya or Samudragupta, but some modern research points the finger at Chandraketu, who might have been the true powerhouse of Gangaridai.

Megasthenes described Sandrocottus as the mightiest king of the Gangaridai, a term known to refer to the people of Bengal’s Gangetic plains. Placing Alexander the Great’s meeting with this formidable ruler puts Chandraketu squarely in the historical timeline of the 5th to 4th century BC, which lines up rather neatly with the period of Alexander’s conquests.

Walking Among Ruins: Chandraketugarh and Khana-Mihirer Dhipi

Google Chandraketugarh, and up pops a site near a crossroads in Berachampa, known as Khana-Mihirer Dhipi, one of the two key archaeological sites here, the other being the Chandraketugarh Fort, located about two kilometres away.

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Khana-Mihirer Dhipi is the more accessible of the two, with visible excavations. These digs have unveiled what look like the remains of ancient temples, suggesting a history of reconstruction over the centuries—a patchwork of cultural influences, if you like. Artefacts ranging from pottery to terracotta plaques have been discovered here, offering a glimpse into the site’s long-standing cultural and historical significance.

Visitors to Khana-Mihirer Dhipi can wander along well-marked paths, but it’s best to stick to the designated areas and resist the urge to clamber over the ancient ruins. For a more detailed look at what’s been unearthed, a trip to the nearby Chandraketugarh Museum is well worth your time. Here, many of the artefacts from the site are on display, giving you a closer look at the lives of those who once called this place home.

Where History Meets Mystery

Chandraketugarh, with its rich, layered past, stands as a quiet witness to Bengal’s history. From the powerful reign of the elusive Chandraketu to the trade routes that connected the East to the West, this ancient site offers plenty for those with a keen sense of curiosity. As the sands of time shift, revealing and concealing stories long forgotten, Chandraketugarh remains a mystery waiting to be fully uncovered. So, if you’re in the mood for a jaunt through history, a trip to this ancient site could be just the ticket—a chance to step back in time to a place where the lines between history and legend are deliciously blurred.

Pictures by Saurav Dutta. Click HERE to view his Facebook page for more such fascinating history.

Sources:

1. Wikipedia
2. An article by by Subhadip Mukherjee, February 5, 2021 in indianvagabond.com